Skincare Routine: What Really Matters, According to a Dermatologist

In my office I see patients who come in with 15 different products in their routine and irritated skin. And others who use nothing and have perfect skin. The truth is that skincare doesn't have to be complicated. There are three steps that really matter — everything else is optional.

The three pillars of skincare

1. Cleansing

Cleansing removes makeup, environmental residue, oil and the dead cells that build up during the day or night. Without good cleansing, no other product works well.

What to look for in a cleanser:

• It shouldn't dry out or irritate the skin (avoid regular bar soap on your face)
• A balanced pH (ideally between 4.5 and 5.5, similar to the skin's natural pH)
• For oily skin: a foaming or gel cleanser
• For dry or sensitive skin: a cleansing milk or cream cleanser

How many times a day? Twice: morning and night. Washing more doesn't improve your skin and can damage the skin barrier.

2. Moisturizing

Moisturizing isn't just for dry skin. All skin needs moisture to keep the skin barrier intact. A healthy barrier keeps water in and keeps irritants and allergens out.

What to look for in a moisturizer:

• Humectants (attract water): glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea
• Occlusives (seal in moisture): petroleum jelly, ceramides, squalane
• Emollients (soften): jojoba oil, shea butter

For oily skin: light gels or fluids. For dry skin: richer creams. For combination skin: apply by zone.

3. Sun protection

This is the most important step in any routine. I'm not exaggerating. The sun is responsible for 80–90% of visible skin aging (wrinkles, dark spots, loss of firmness). And it is the most important risk factor for skin cancer.

What I recommend:

• Broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB) SPF 50+
• Apply it as the last step of your morning routine
• Reapply every 2–3 hours if you're in direct sun
• Use it every day — cloudy or sunny, indoors or outdoors

Are foundations with SPF enough? No. People generally don't apply enough makeup to get the stated SPF.

Ingredients that really work

Retinoids (retinol, tretinoin)

Retinoids are the ingredient with the most scientific evidence in aesthetic dermatology. They stimulate collagen production, speed up cell turnover and improve fine lines, dark spots, pores and texture. Tretinoin (by prescription) is stronger than over-the-counter retinol.

How to start: At night, 1–2 times a week so your skin can adapt. It may cause flaking and redness at first — this is normal and temporary. Always pair it with a moisturizer and daily SPF.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

An antioxidant that protects against sun damage, lightens dark spots and stimulates collagen. Use it in your morning routine, before sunscreen.

Most effective form: L-ascorbic acid at 10–20%. It requires stable formulations (acidic pH, opaque packaging). If the product turns orange or brown, it has oxidized and lost effectiveness.

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3, which improves the skin barrier, controls excess oil, minimizes pores and has a mild depigmenting effect. It is very well tolerated, even by sensitive skin, and compatible with almost all other actives.

Hyaluronic acid (topical)

It doesn't penetrate deep into the skin — the molecule is too large — but it works as a very effective surface humectant. Apply it to damp skin and seal it in with a cream.

AHAs/BHAs (glycolic acid, salicylic acid)

Chemical exfoliants that remove dead cells, improve texture, fade post-acne marks and unclog pores. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble and penetrates the pore, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.

Overrated (or simply useless) ingredients

• Oral and topical collagen: ingested collagen is digested like any other protein; topical collagen doesn't penetrate. There are studies on specific peptides, but the evidence is modest
• Tea tree oil in high concentrations: it can irritate the skin; at low concentrations it has a mild antimicrobial effect
• Micellar water alone as a cleanser: it removes makeup but doesn't cleanse deeply; always follow with a cleanser if you use it as a first step

A minimal, effective routine (morning and night)

Morning:

1. Gentle cleanser
2. Vitamin C (optional but recommended)
3. Moisturizer
4. SPF 50+ sunscreen

Night:

1. Makeup remover (if you wear makeup)
2. Cleanser
3. Retinoid (2–3 times a week at first)
4. Moisturizer

That's enough. Adding more products isn't always better — it can overload the skin and make it hard to know what's working.

When to see a dermatologist

A basic routine helps keep skin healthy, but some conditions need a medical diagnosis and treatment:

• Moderate or severe acne
• Dark spots that don't improve with sun protection and basic actives
• Rashes, intense flaking or sudden changes in the skin
• Moles that change in shape, color or size

Would you like us to review your current routine together and adapt it to your skin type? During the consultation I do a personalized evaluation and give you specific recommendations, without selling you unnecessary products. Book your appointment with Dr. Alejandra Téllez in Bogotá.